kaklong kaklong kaklong ...
Hold
fast! Its getting a bit bumpy,
ladies and gentlemen!
As a matter of fact, these rails saw,
from 1964 onwards, a hill moving towards
the East coast of Africa. The railway was
built only for this purpose, to drag a
hill from Africa across the sea to Asia!
When the hill had gone, that was some
twenty seven years ago, no one needed
these rails anymore. Fact is, we are the
first ones to use them again.
One of our history-tunnels will take us
to that hill in a time when it had not
yet vanished to Asia. And, watch it, the
hill will tell us his astonishing tale
all by itself.
26
With this summit of the Ngwenya
Hills, on an altitude of one thousand
eight hundred meters, I am the second
highest peak of this country.
The people who became known as the Swazis
were part of a large migratory mass which
moved down the east coast of Africa about
1750. But, the first people I came to
know looked differently. They were
smaller, and they liked very much what I
held for them in store as a gift.
Some forty-three thousand years ago, the
leader of a wandering group of San
climbed up to my summit; perhaps, he was
looking for a cave where he and his big
family could hide, perhaps, he wanted to
admire the birds eye view as
stretched before him from below my summit
to the horizon as wavy shades of
green, blending far away with the
brilliant blue of the firmament and the
washed white of drifting clouds.
When he climbed down, beams of
sunlight let glimmer some tiny crystals
within a dark layer of sediment under a
nose of rock. The hand which stroke this
glimmer felt a coolness taken by his
fingers to the heat of his face.
When he returned to his group they fell
into a state of awe. On his dark skin,
they seemed to discover the reflection of
the nightly firmament.
I had presented the San with the powder
of stars.
From the iron-rich bedrock of a cave on
Lion Peak they started to extract
specularite, the sparkling black iron ore
used in ancient rituals and for
cosmetics. Haematite, the red iron ore
that they used to decorate their bodies
with, was also mined. When dissolved in
water, they discovered, this mineral
would taste like blood, and it became
part of their spiritual ceremonies.
This spot on my flank represents the
oldest mining operation of the world,
started by the San in 26 000 B.C.
Then, some four hundred and fifty years
before men invented the modern calendar,
Bantu-speaking people came from the South
to settle around my feet. Their tools
were not anymore of stone but of iron,
and they were not interested in the
powder of stars.
Behind specularite and haematite, they
discovered that element which
first melted in fire and then forged
would ring my passing-bell.
Their early effort to break ore from my
side did not cause great damage. The
biggest scar measured one hundred by
twenty-five metres, being thirteen metres
deep.
My death came, in modern times, when an
iron horse took me away.
In 1946 the Swaziland Geological
Survey proved the large extent of
iron-deposits, and the Colonial
Development Corporation in association
with the Anglo-American Corporation,
financed an iron-ore mine and a railway
to convey ore from Ngwenya to Lourenço
Marques, later called Maputo, at the
coast of the Indian Ocean.
Their international merry-go-around had
started spitting me out
Dynamite tore me to pieces. Gigantic
excavators pushed the rubble on
conveyor-belts. Turned into dusty,
brownish crumbs, I was taken down the two
hundred and ten kilometre long
railway-line to the Indian Ocean.
They had deepened the port so that giant
vessels could land, being built in Norway
for that purpose. They arrived from
Europe to take me out of Africa to Asia.
Each voyage would take two weeks.
Arriving in Japan, I vanished
shipload by shipload in the
bellies of huge melting-works.
Resurrected under Japanese lacquered
work, the journey was again across the
sea. And now, as bits and pieces, I am
rolling on roads of every continent.
In 1977, the company decided to pack up
too much rubble, too little iron.
I was turned into an open-air museum.
At the bottom of some remaining walls, in
the big hole, dug-up somewhere close to
my former heart, every week a black man
is bending over the dark mirror of
remaining ground-water. He brings an
empty cola-bottle to take some with him.
The water is received by people who are
going to be blessed with it.
Ah they still believe this water
would offer some strength to them
They should climb up the museums
metal-stairs, sponsored kindly by the
European Union, to reach that spot where
I had given to the San my powder of stars
TREASURES OF AFRICAN SOIL
ARE NO TREASURES OF AFRICAN PEOPLE
kaklong kaklong kaklong ...
You want to leave me already? Visitors
are so rare!
Well,
we have heard this already:
TREASURES OF AFRICAN SOIL
ARE NO TREASURES OF AFRICAN PEOPLE?
We
would like to track down an answer to the
question why it is that way. For this
reason we have to leave
But, then, you have reached the right
spot! Is it always necessary that the
mountain has to come to the prophet?
African chiefs sold their subjects to
slave traders, first to Arabs, later to
Europeans. On far-away plantations these
traded people from Africa were forced to
help multiplying the wealth of Europeans
and of North Americans.
African chiefs bartered ivory and
precious metals with alien traders. Those
took these natural treasure across the
sea to be worked on by artisans and
artists in other parts of the world.
Instead to allow and to support the
creation of value out of own resources by
their own people, African chiefs gave
concessions away to foreigners.
Ah from up here, I have seen that
king who ignited Africas most crazy
scramble for concessions.
26
In 1880 two prospectors, Tom
McLachlan and Walter Carter, negotiated a
concession with the Swazi king Mbandzeni,
giving them exclusive rights to prospect
the mountains north of the Komati River.
Two other prospectors, James and David
Forbes, obtained rights to the area south
of the Komati. Both groups struck it rich
and started the crazy free-for-all
known as the Swaziland Concession Rush.
As news of the gold strikes spread, a
flood of Europeans poured into Swaziland.
Mbandzenis capital, Mbekelweni, was
besieged by fortune-seekers pleading for
exclusive rights to various pieces of
land.
By the time he died in 1889 Mbandzeni had
granted more than five hundred
concessions covering practically every
activity imaginable, and nearly every
hectare of his country. In return for
these monopolies, the prospectors paid
him an annual rent. But many of the
concessions were absurd.
One held by a Mrs. Parr claimed exclusive
rights to the running of refreshment
rooms on railway stations. Somebody else
had, in fact, secured a concession to
build a railway. Another ingenious
character had a concession covering the
generation of steam, which would block
any railway construction unless he was
bought out, naturally at vast cost.
Adventurers, swindlers and a few
individuals who genuinely loved the
country and wanted it to prosper took
part in this scramble
For a long time, the people in Swaziland
lived on borrowed land, almost every
piece did belong to a concessionaire.
After the British-Boer-War, a British
appointed commission had the nightmarish
task of endeavouring to clear up the
concession tangle. Some concessionaires
had vanished, others reappeared with the
coming of peace, and lawyers were having
a glorious time lodging claims, seeking
damages and compounding the entire fiasco
with their own greed.
The mess was partly resolved with
expropriation, at considerable cost, of
all monopoly concessions interfering in
the proper administration of the country.
In 1921, a twenty-one year old was
installed as the Swazi king Sobhuza II,
and his first major task was to lead a
delegation to London to challenge the
legality of the concession situation, and
especially the allocation of only one
third of his country to his people. The
petition failed
but, in the
following years, the king had some
success with the British, and he
organized a national fund to raise money
by contributions from the Swazi people.
This fund purchased land as it became
available from concessionaires, and
restored it to the Swazi nation.
In 1967 the British granted the country
full independence. Sobhuza II led his
nation into the new era with a minimum of
disturbance, and without the corruption
and exploitation common in so many newly
independent states.
Swaziland was fortunate in having this
kindly, strong and intelligent leader
Oh yes I have seen everything from
up here, no matter how crumbled my walls
became!
Sobhuza
II ? There must have been a Sobhuza I
then?
I have seen him as well, from up here
I knew Sobhuza I. Of course, he was only
called Sobhuza at his time no
I needed, nobody knew that
there would be another king using his
name some one hundred and seventy
years later.
26
The people who had come from the
north, around 1750, led by a chief named
Dlamini, called themselves the Nguni, and
became fragmented into separate groups.
One group came to this region. Their
leader was Ngwane III. These first few
families settled somewhere in the hills
overlooking the Pongolo River. There
Ngwane died, and I remember the
burial-ceremony
He was buried in a taboo-forest ever
since known as eMbilaneni The
hallowed place. One family, that of
Ngoltsheni, was appointed as guardians of
the grave descendants still carry
out this task.
The settlers increased in numbers and
called themselves the Ngwane, after their
first leader. Ngwanes grandson,
Sobhuza, gradually became ambitious. It
was the time of nation-building among the
other sections of the original migratory
stream. The Zulus, Pondos, Xhosas and
other Nguni people were expanding their
territories and absorbing weaker
neighbours. Sobhuza had no difficulty in
securing control of the southern half of
Swaziland, if only because there was
hardly anybody living in the area. But he
was a particularly active nation-builder.
His pocket-army steadily brought every
independent group in the future Swaziland
under the control of their chief.
The developing nation, however, also had
troubles. It was frequently attacked by
the Zulus. At one stage Sobhuza had to
beg support from Portuguese traders in
Lourenço Marques. These allies aided him
in suppressing a rebellion among his
conquered people, they brought with them
the power of their guns, but they brought
also something else which should change
the life of all the indigenous South
African peoples.
It came through an early merry-go-around
of globalization: from South America it
had been taken first by some Portuguese
colonizers back to Europe, and now,
Portuguese allies of a local ruler
brought it to Africa: MAIZE!
kaklong kaklong kaklong ...
We
know, Maize, became not only the staple
crop of all indigenous South African
people but in the current
merry-go-around of globalization
it was turned into a symbol for creative
capitalism as well!
That is the catchword for our next guest
on our rolling stage.
We really have to bid farewell.
And, while we are being coupled again to
the international rail-network, we are
welcoming a nutty alarmist from Germany!
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