Sources
Introduction
Prologue
Chapter 01
Chapter 02
Chapter 03
Chapter 04
Chapter 05
Chapter 06
Chapter 07
Chapter 08
Chapter 09
Chapter 10
Chapter 11
Chapter 12
Chapter 13
Chapter 14
Chapter 15
Chapter 16
Chapter 17
Chapter 18
Chapter 19
Chapter 20
Chapter 21
Chapter 22
Chapter 23
Chapter 24
Chapter 25
Chapter 26
Chapter 27
Chapter 28
Chapter 29
Chapter 30
Chapter 31
Chapter 32
Chapter 33
Chapter 34
Chapter 35
Chapter 36
Chapter 37
Chapter 38
Chapter 39
Chapter 40
Chapter 41
Chapter 42
Chapter 43
Chapter 44
Chapter 45
Chapter 46
Chapter 47
Chapter 48
Chapter 49
Chapter 50
Chapter 51
Chapter 52
Chapter 53
Chapter 54
Chapter 55
Chapter 56
Chapter 57
Chapter 58
Chapter 59
Chapter 60
Chapter 61
Chapter 62
Chapter 63
Chapter 64
Chapter 65
Chapter 66
Chapter 67
Chapter 68
Chapter 69
Chapter 70
Chapter 71
Chapter 72
Chapter 73
Chapter 74
Chapter 75
Chapter 76
Chapter 77
Chapter 78
Chapter 79
Chapter 80
Chapter 81
Chapter 82
Chapter 83
Chapter 84
Chapter 85
Chapter 86
Chapter 87
Chapter 88

 
TAZARA ... a journey by rail through world-history © KJS / 2009

Trans-Siberian Railway

CHAPTER 16  



But this is, again, not our original track!?

— transsib — transsib — transsib ...

On 19th May 1891, the first pickaxes dug into frozen Siberian soil. More than seventy thousand workers were employed, most of them convicts. Thousands perished. The Transsib was built on bones, the Russians say ...
„… and I love the luxury offered by it today …“

And, who are you, please?

„Karl-Heinz Jeller, born 1954, enthusiastic traveller, in the Seventies of last century as hitch-hiker through Europe, in the Eighties as backpacker through Asia and Latin America — today professionally around the world. I am Head of the travel-staff at the Austrian daily KURIER.
… And you know, my colleagues there were surprised to see me preparing my next project: You will need the fidgets, they said, and, honestly, I did not expect much apart from the experience of time and of the wideness of Asia. Birches to the left, birches to the right. Much of a region, no landscape. However, it turned out to be different.

7.865 Kilometres across Asia, seemingly endless. Crossing the Taiga, the steppes, the Gobi Desert, without a stop-over you are on the train for one hundred and seventy hours, seven days and seven nights.
Perhaps, no other travel is calling for an explanation like this one; a distance you could cover in seven hours by plane which is like the flight of a rocket compared with the voyage on the Transsib. One week to get to your destination. In times of weekend-flights to New York and of virtual speed on Internet, it has got its prickling charm. What to do with so much time? What to do with yourself?
A new dimension — a delightful involvement in slow motion, a chess-player’s move against stupefaction by speed, with an average of 46,2 km/h around almost one quarter of the globe …
To be on the safe side, I decided against the regular Rossija-train whose toilets will be clogged after one day and thirty travellers have to share two washing basins. Instead, I chose the special train for tourists, the Zarengold, booked by a GERMAN TRAVEL-AGENCY (?) several times a year to roll from Moscow to Beijing.
The carriages of highest standard were built in the Fifties of last century on order of Nikita Khrushchev for use of the government. Brezhnev used them, so did Vladimir Putin. Precious wooden panels, polished brass, plush fauteuils in each compartment for two, perfectly working showers, service of the highest grade and the food — a poem — including mounts of caviar. The GERMAN TRAVEL-AGENCY (??) hired Putin’s chef of the board-restaurant. And he accepts comments of the tourists with pokemon-tie on proudly swollen chest.
Moscow-Beijing — you are right, that is not the classical route of the Transsib. The original one is leading over 9.289 km to Vladivostok in Russia‘s Southeasterly corner. But for tourists it is much more interesting … the GERMAN TRAVEL-AGENCY (???) …“


— transsib — transsib — transsib ...

Thanks, Herr Jeller … we are at a loss to provide more question marks in order to cover your sneaking promotional attempts …

„Wait! Before you hook me off … Much more interesting than a railway-station made of marble, so much featured by your Messr’s Trotsky and Witte, is the station of Yekaterinburg not far away from the imagined line between Europe and Asia! …“

We were at that already, Herr Jeller! Fourty kilometres outside, where the bodies of the Tsar’s family had been dumped, a Romanov-memorial is being erected …

„Ach was, something else is the real attraction for visitors to Yekaterinburg — the cemetery on which the local mafia buries its heroes with bombastic creations of gravestones showing life-size images of the deceased, in photographic details: golden chains on hairy chest, Rolex-watches at the wrist, a glittering cell phone to the ear …“

„Do they have in Kiev as well, but including a penguin as status symbol … great idea, should I use for my Internet-portal minimovie.com ...“

„It would be plagiarism, Dimitri Lesnewski — unless you would bargain with your Ukrainian colleague Andrej Kurkow, perhaps during a picnic on Ice?

Did we miss a connexion? Who are these gentlemen, Lesnewski and Kurkow? And what, please, is this penguin-business about?

„TRAVELLING made by Jeller fixes your know-how!
I brought you two profiteers of post-revolutionary development in Russia and in the Ukraine.
Both — so-called post-Soviet-people.
Both — no mafia-people.
Both — media-workers like me!
The first one produces TV, the other one books.
The first one says:“

„At home, everyone knows me; here I am asked: who is this man from Russia?“

„The second one says:“

„In my heart, as in the heart of every post-Russian person, there is a bit nostalgia with regard to olden times. We compare permanently our life today with the life in the past, in the Soviet Union, not even wanting to turn back, but the experience does not let loose.“

„Whereupon we have arrived at the ‚Death and the Penguin‘, your success-novel, Andrej Kurkow.“

„Well, my main-protagonist is Viktor, a writer who ,got stuck between journalistic trials and small works of prose‘. He has no profession, no income, no family, no woman. But he has an unusual companion. He shares his place with a king-penguin whom he had saved from the liquidation-chunk of Kiev’s zoo. The Editor of the capital’s newspaper engages him as a writer of necrologies. His task: to prepare necrologies for prominent people who are still alive; but he shall write them in a way ,as never before anything was written about them‘.
And Viktor writes, he pops up dry facts with pathetic-philosophical tirades, about factory-owners and politicians, about artists and army-men, and he signs his works, as recommended, with four question marks. He notices that the records of those VIPs are sprinkled with dark spots, however, it does not bother him. ,People with a clean record do not exist’; the trails of those who climbed up in society would show, necessarily, the one or the other bend. Viktor’s moral indifference is en vogue; if the battle is going on between hostile mafia-clans outside you don’t go near the window. And it is somehow natural that his editor disappears and that he himself must hide for a while in a dacha outside of town.
Misha, someone with a doubtful mafia-background, hands him over his four year old daughter and a wade of money before he gets somehow chopped as the involuntary step-father is being told.
Viktor engages a maid, asks her to stay over night and he ,plays family‘, with picnic, excursions and the dream of a little house in the countryside: without conviction, without love, only because it happens. Unfortunately, his small happiness does not fit into the criminal upheavals of Kiev. Viktor’s necrologies turn out to be really unique: suspiciously soon after the necrologies are written those who are described in them meet a sudden death, they are either murdered or fall victim to an ,accident‘. Behind this, it is hinted, there are some people who want to ,clean the country‘.
But it is the criminal syndicate with most victims that puts soft pressure on Viktor to appear on the cemetery together with his penguin. They take the bird as a symbol of a high class funeral. The penguin is turned by that murderous section of Kiev’s society not only into a symbol of status but, at the same time, into a symbol of death.“

.„You have to sell me the film-rights, Andrei Jurjewitsch! Next year I am going to buy a private TV-station in Germany — daily one hour with short films from my minimovie-stock. The penguin could be a starter …“

„Dimitri Lesnewski, thirteen million Euro, that is the amount you have spent on this mini-station which German TV-watchers know under the label ‚Das Vierte‘ and which they have to look for with a magnifying glass ...“

„The penguin … or even mini-movies from this rolling railway-stage? I like what you are doing here, and why should I do something which is already available in abundance?

STOP HOLLYWOOD! …

German TV compensated the absence of own ideas for too long with deals on the British or the American TV-market. Whether I want it or not, I’ll have to challenge German habits by approaching everything in a more unorthodox manner.
I am thirty-eight now. In Russia, Ren TV, founded by me and my mother in 1997, just held a percentage of viewers which never rose above five per cent. But the content tickled the Kreml, and during Putin’s second term we got in trouble.
In 2005 banks close to the Kreml and the RTL-group took over. What they have done with it? Well, everyone rushes to Russia and to China in order to make money.
I am an artist and an independent film-producer, I was not keen to join the classical league of oligarchs, and I did not want to join the fate of ex-TV-boss Wladimir Gussinski or ex-billionaire Michail Chodorkowski either, one in exile, the other one in jail …
In Russia, we do not have a free press but many free people. It cannot be turned back, but, you see, the drive within the wide range of Russian society is not clear yet …

At the moment, there is no serious demand for genuine freedom — but there is a big demand for the freedom to earn much money.“


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